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Disappointed with Fuji X-T1 Firmware 4.0? We have tipps for you...


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It doesn’t work, no AF-improvement, it doesn’t focus between each shot in CL or CH, no faster AF in low light! This is some of the negative feedback we could read in the comments on FR and at the Fuji-X-Forum here.

So what… is Firmware 4 just crap? Well, sometimes (often?) it’s just a matter to find the right settings. Patrick has made up an extended list of tipps:

Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot in CL or CH tracking, if ES only (electronic shutter) or MS+ES is enabled. Shooting fast-moving subjects with the ES doesn’t really make sense (rolling shutter effect).

Turn Off Face Detection! If you have Face Detection put to ON, the camera will focus only with CDAF. The faster Phase Detection AF (PDAF) works only if Face Detection is disabled.

High Performance Mode ON: many don’t even know that this features exists, like Calipedro here. It’s definitely worth to sacrifice a bit of battery life. Fuji should put this feature ON as standard.

Keep you subject in the center: Phase detection pixels are located in the center of the sensor. Keep your subject in the center and PDAF will give you a faster AF.

Use all Phase Detection Pixels with Zone AF 5×3: To take advantage of all the phase detection pixels, set you Zone AF box to 5×3 and place it in the center of the frame. Within this 5×3 box tracking will be very smooth… at least that’s my experience with my crazy dog.

Increase the size of the AF-box: If you use Single Point AF, increase the size of the AF-box as much as possible.

PRE-AF: The camera will continuously adjust focus, even if the shutter is not pressed (of half pressed). This can help to get the first shot in focus quicker. Downside: more battery drain.

LENS FIRMWARE: make sure that your Fujinon lens is updated to the latest firmware version.

 

Different Lens, Different results: According to the lens you use, the AF-improvement will be more or less (or not) visible. For example, I was very happy with the improvement of my 55-200, but I can’t really say if the 18-55 or 14 has become faster.

The learning curve: Practice and get used to the new features. See what works best in which situation

Let Rico study for you. Rumors has it, that Rico will update his X-T1 book and tell us how to make the best out of our new Fuji X-T1 FW 4. Once it’s out, all we have to do is to read his updated book.

So, do you have more tips? Then share them below!

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Actually, all of this was also applies to firmware 3, as nobody with firmware 3 would or should use the ES for tracking, enable FD for tracking, disable HPM etc., and all of it is also in my book. No need to update these parts, they still apply.

 

Not that much has changed between firmware 3 and 4. Yes, PDAF is speedier, CDAF is more reliable and there's now real 3D tracking with predictive CDAF. Actually, the faster predictive CDAF is the actual "killer feature". However, the most significant improvement is added comfort and convenience for those who previously struggled with the old single point AF. It's like adding ABS and ESP and an automatic transmission to cars: less experienced drivers may like it more than experienced ones. 

 

We had our first "real" firmware 4 workshop last weekend, and it took about 20 minutes to cover the additional features. It isn't complicated at all.

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As in all new things  which need some adjusting to, one needs getting used to things being new.... until Fuji won’t change everything once again ( I know, I know, it is not that everything has been changed ...  ^_^ !).

 

I suppose the anticipation for the new software and the much talked about improvements before its release had created in most of us the sense that something unique and revolutionary was going to take place.

 

Perhaps some of us now think that none of this really happened or are even disappointed of what we were given... :rolleyes:  for free.

 

I have tested the single shot autofocus features ( which is the way I use the camera the most) and 2 of my lenses ( 35mm and 60mm) seem to have been somewhat ( much?) improved.  The 10-24mm doesn’t appear to have been improving all that much ( but it was good already before) and the 50-230 seems even to be slower than it was ( I cannot corroborate this with anything more than an impression).

 

I have yet to test the camera with the tracking moving objects which is something that I really very seldom do.

 

I appreciate however the concise instructions given at the beginning of this thread.

 

It is becoming evident that this concise approach (If you want to achieve this............ do this 1) 2) 3)  would be a very nice thing especially for those, like me, who don’t always use some of the features of the camera  :ph34r: .

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Obviously. And I certainly wouldn't use it in CL mode, either.

Problem is the face detection option is universal.

 

What happens if one has to switch between AF-S and AF-C constantly?

 

For example I mainly shoot portrait and therefore naturally prefer to use face detection in AF-S for static, posed shot. And when I switch to AF-C and Cl I have to remember to switch face detection off orelse only CDAF is used. And after that I'll have to switch it on again when going back to AF-S and so forth....

 

 

To make the matter worse switching face detection on and off is a two steps process (hit right arrow and ok to confirm) unlike my X100T.

 

 

What a pain!!

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No pain for me. I simply press one button on my X-T10. Takes me about 0.2 seconds. It's two presses and then half-pressing the shutter on my X-T1. More painful, but still bearable (takes about 0.8 seconds).

 

As long as there are users who actually want to use FD along with AF-C and CL, there can't be an auto-off mechanism like when CH is set.

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It doesn’t work, no AF-improvement, it doesn’t focus between each shot in CL or CH, no faster AF in low light! This is some of the negative feedback we could read in the comments on FR and at the Fuji-X-Forum here.

 

So what… is Firmware 4 just crap? Well, sometimes (often?) it’s just a matter to find the right settings. Patrick has made up an extended list of tipps:

 

Enable Mechanical Shutter (MS) only. The camera won’t focus between each shot in CL or CH tracking, if ES only (electronic shutter) or MS+ES is enabled. Shooting fast-moving subjects with the ES doesn’t really make sense (rolling shutter effect).

 

Turn Off Face Detection! If you have Face Detection put to ON, the camera will focus only with CDAF. The faster Phase Detection AF (PDAF) works only if Face Detection is disabled.

 

High Performance Mode ON: many don’t even know that this features exists, like Calipedro here. It’s definitely worth to sacrifice a bit of battery life. Fuji should put this feature ON as standard.

 

Keep you subject in the center: Phase detection pixels are located in the center of the sensor. Keep your subject in the center and PDAF will give you a faster AF.

 

Use all Phase Detection Pixels with Zone AF 5×3: To take advantage of all the phase detection pixels, set you Zone AF box to 5×3 and place it in the center of the frame. Within this 5×3 box tracking will be very smooth… at least that’s my experience with my crazy dog.

 

Increase the size of the AF-box: If you use Single Point AF, increase the size of the AF-box as much as possible.

 

PRE-AF: The camera will continuously adjust focus, even if the shutter is not pressed (of half pressed). This can help to get the first shot in focus quicker. Downside: more battery drain.

 

Different Lens, Different results: According to the lens you use, the AF-improvement will be more or less (or not) visible. For example, I was very happy with the improvement of my 55-200, but I can’t really say if the 18-55 or 14 has become faster.

 

The learning curve: Practice and get used to the new features. See what works best in which situation

 

Let Rico study for you. Rumors has it, that Rico will update his X-T1 book and tell us how to make the best out of our new Fuji X-T1 FW 4. Once it’s out, all we have to do is to read his updated book.

 

So, do you have more tips? Then share them below!

I only played with the 4.0 a bit but very unhappy...

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I like what I've seen so far. I like the zone AF and I don't miss the macro mode (ridiculous idea in the first place). I don't know what else was in the update, and I don't care. I really like the fact that Fuji takes some care over looking after its existing customers - some competitors would just advocate buying a new camera.

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Like some posts above, I'm quite happy. I don't recall ever getting this sort of upgrade with Canon! I like that Fuji are really wanting to improve things. The eye detection worked a treat this morning with the 35mm f1.4, as well as the various zones. The fastest things I'll need to track are the kids or the bride coming down the aisle.

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Hi guys,

 

I have a problem with the new firmware. With the 50-140 on, the IS never stops running. I have set it for "Shooting only", but it still runs all the time, as long as the camera is on. What do I do to turn that off? I have mine set up for back button focus, on the AE-L button, and the camera usually set on MF.

 

Tips?

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I have the same problem with my 35mm f1.4

Even in single focus the lens keep focusing. Annoying really and battery consuming.

Anyone any idea as to solve this I much appreciate. All this happened after I updated with the new firmware, which is good but not the end of the world....let alone a new whole camera.

Cheers

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there is now a new thread, started from an Admin, which in many ways duplicates this one ( this forum starts having lots of duplicates and becomes difficult to follow!)

 

http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/658-did-the-fuji-x-t1-fw-40-really-improve-the-autofocus-of-fujinon-lenses-the-answer-is-in-these-polls-one-for-each-lens/?do=findComment&comment=7407

 

In answer to @albuzz, I have a 35 and it seems to me that it does hunt a lot less now than it did before, but its performance is far from instantaneous when transitioning from close up to far away range and when operating in low light with whitish subjects showing no or low contrast.

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Hi Milandro,

Thanks.

actually my hunting problem was of a different nature. My 35 now hunts much less with new firmware i must say. Anyway, I  solved my problem. I had the pre focus ON as suggested by Patrick. Yes it help to speed up focusing but in my opinion not necessary. Drains batteries really. Guess  Exiled may have the same problem with his zoom. @Exiled...try to turn Pre Focus OFF see what happens.

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I never had prefocus on so this might explain things.

 

as for batteries being drained the solution is to have 3 or 4 ready at hand.

 

Up until now 2 batteries is all I ever used during my not to intense photography sessions. At the very most I had to change batteries once while shooting.

 

I have 3 and have never had to use all 3 of them. Would I ever reach the point that this becomes a problem I will buy more batteries ( after market ones made by other makers cost very little) or look for other batteries with higher capacity.

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I tested the new firmware with my 50-140 using CF and wide zone with my dog zig-zagging around the yard. I also performed the same actions with my Sony a6000 and the 16-50 lens (3.5-5.6). The Sony fired off at 11/fps. The Fuji was more like 7 maybe 8/fps. Much to my surprise, the Fuji had more in focus than the Sony. I would say that the focusing and tracking in the Fuji is improved. Is it where I would like it compared to my old Canon 7D? No, but it is close. I have another lens coming for the Sony. The 18-105 f4. That should be a good test.

 

As for Face Detection, well, the Sony a6000 is superb compared to the fair to average Fuji. But, for me, since I shoot a lot of sports, the important thing is good tracking and sharp focus. Right now, the Fuji X-T1 is holding its own vs. the Sony, but more tests need to be done.

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Did a few tracking tests today using an inexperienced shooter (my fiancee) and myself as a subject. Obviously, one needs a checklist of possible screw-ups, as at first I thought that the tracking was just as unbearably slow and unreliable as before. Took a few tries to finally recall that MS+ES mode disables PDAF. And then…

 

THIS IS SPARTAAAA!

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

X-T1, 56/1.2 wide open.

 

(My speed is approximately 18 mph)

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I shot some ice skater yesterday and although I got some in focus shot I also have a lot of oof ones that goes straight to the bin.

 

Problem is 3x3 zone is simply too 'loose'.

 

Sure you can argue that I should use single point, but what I think is Fuji needs to implement something like Canon DSLR with 4/8 AF points expansion explained here - http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/1dx_af_pts_article.shtml (Page 2, 4 & 8 points expansion)

 

Anyway samples below shows what I mean, images from a burst sequence - 

 

DSCF4611

DSCF4615

DSCF4616

DSCF4617

 

Oh well maybe I'm expecting too much, but I feel there's still plenty of room for improvements if Fuji gives us more flexible AF modes to improve it further.

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I suggest you retry by using those settings

I used all the right setting - AF-C, HP mode, MS only, Ch, 3x3 zone. The problem was at that distance as shown in my samples the 3x3 zone is simply too large and imprecise, it switched focus from the skater onto the background and back.

 

Obviously single point would have been better but I couldn't keep switching the modes when actions were flying thru left and right.

 

I used to be a 5D3 shooter and imo 4/8 points expansion would have been perfect in such situation. It's def something that Fuji can implement and improve further.

 

Overall the update is better than nothing, but it's all of a catch up game and still clearly behind against its main competitors such as A6000, GH4, EM1 etc. by a fair margin.

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