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#41 Hermelin

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 12:52 PM

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So you're basically screwed if you only shot JPEG?



#42 Isaac Hilman

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 05:24 PM

So you're basically screwed if you only shot JPEG?

Not entirely. I love the look of lot's of the SOOC Jpegs I see coming out of Fuji Cameras. I would suggest turning your Noise Reduction in Camera down though, at least -1, and maybe even your sharpness down to -1. (I usually have mine set at -2 LR, and -1 Sharpness). 

 

A Good test for you might be;

 

Find a scene that you can easily mimic the watercolor paint-like effect when photographed. (Thick trees, foliage, bushes, and grass can do this). Then set your camera on a tripod. Take photos with your settings Defaulted, then + and - your Sharpness / Noise Reduction one point each photo between each shot, and review on your LCD each time. You'll probably come across a setting that reduces the look of the wormy artifacts eventually, and then keep it there.

 

First Photo: NR: 0, SH: 0,

Second photo: NR: -1, SH: 0

Third photo: NR: -2, SH: 0

 

Then try the NR 0, and SH -1, or -2, or -2 NR and +1 or 2 sharpening.

 

I'm thinking that you'll find a setting that reduces the appearance of the artifacts.

 

I think one thing that would help this, is if Fuji also added a menu option for "Film Grain" that could be set just like the other +/- variables. I would love to see that, especially for JPEG shooters.


Edited by Isaac Hilman, 03 February 2017 - 05:25 PM.


#43 kimcarsons

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 06:23 PM

Not entirely. I love the look of lot's of the SOOC Jpegs I see coming out of Fuji Cameras. I would suggest turning your Noise Reduction in Camera down though, at least -1, and maybe even your sharpness down to -1. (I usually have mine set at -2 LR, and -1 Sharpness). 

 

A Good test for you might be;

 

Find a scene that you can easily mimic the watercolor paint-like effect when photographed. (Thick trees, foliage, bushes, and grass can do this). Then set your camera on a tripod. Take photos with your settings Defaulted, then + and - your Sharpness / Noise Reduction one point each photo between each shot, and review on your LCD each time. You'll probably come across a setting that reduces the look of the wormy artifacts eventually, and then keep it there.

 

First Photo: NR: 0, SH: 0,

Second photo: NR: -1, SH: 0

Third photo: NR: -2, SH: 0

 

Then try the NR 0, and SH -1, or -2, or -2 NR and +1 or 2 sharpening.

 

I'm thinking that you'll find a setting that reduces the appearance of the artifacts.

 

I think one thing that would help this, is if Fuji also added a menu option for "Film Grain" that could be set just like the other +/- variables. I would love to see that, especially for JPEG shooters.

 

The X-Pro2/X-T2 do have a grain option (called "Grain Effect") with three levels, Off, Weak and Strong. I've found that with high ISO images, NR +4 and Grain Effect Strong sometimes looks better than just NR -4. You don't have to take multiple shots, BTW, you can just shoot one image and develop it into multiple JPEGs using the in-camera RAW developer (if you shoot RAW or RAW+JPEG.)



#44 DerKnipser

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 06:46 PM

@kimcarsons: What software you are talking about?

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#45 Isaac Hilman

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 06:53 PM

The X-Pro2/X-T2 do have a grain option (called "Grain Effect") with three levels, Off, Weak and Strong. I've found that with high ISO images, NR +4 and Grain Effect Strong sometimes looks better than just NR -4. You don't have to take multiple shots, BTW, you can just shoot one image and develop it into multiple JPEGs using the in-camera RAW developer (if you shoot RAW or RAW+JPEG.)

Ahh, that's awesome! With every new model or update, Fuji steps up their game. I've only got the XT-1 right now, so I didn't know this had been implemented. Still waiting on my XT-2 to arrive in the mail, should be here next week!


Edited by Isaac Hilman, 03 February 2017 - 08:31 PM.


#46 kimcarsons

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 07:00 PM

Ahh, that's awesome! With ever new model, Fuji steps up their game. I've only got the XT-1 right now, so I didn't know this had been implemented. Still waiting on my XT-2 to arrive in the mail, should be here next week!

 

I think you're going to like it :-)



#47 Torturro

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 07:05 PM

Any suggestions for Mac users?

Im totally dissappointed with the results from Adobe Camera Raw latest version...



#48 Torturro

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Posted 14 February 2017 - 12:53 PM

I tried Irident - ant its great on results. But the work flow is terrible - and Im really missing those incredibile Adobe Camera Raw - spot tools - that can add/remove noise/exposure stc at chosen spots - like painting over the image instead of applying to whole image.



#49 Torturro

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Posted 15 February 2017 - 06:02 PM

Just installed free trial of ON1 - it does a good job, not as good as Irident. 

No camera profiles after I left Adobe.

Will have to learn - and look for my own profiles. 

Downside - although I have 8gb ram - the program works slowish.

 

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#50 Adam Woodhouse

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 04:13 PM

I think your comparison between LR and ON1 is quite obvious and striking.  

 

Between ON1 and Iridient ... they look like they are so close that only those interested in over-the-top pixel peeping would probably care.


Edited by Adam Woodhouse, 16 February 2017 - 04:15 PM.

TWO Fujifilm X-T2's
16mm/1.4 | 35mm/1.4 | 10-24mm/4 | 16-55mm/2.8 | 50-140/2.8

Rokinon 8mm/2.8

Flashes: Fujifilm EF-X500, iNissin i40 and two Yongnou 565's

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#51 Torturro

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 09:23 PM

Amazing - that Adobe released profiles for XT2  that can do....... nothing.



#52 Hermelin

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 08:59 AM

Well since Irident only exist for Mac, ON1 is probably the best choice for us Windows users, correct?



#53 Torturro

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 02:37 PM

There is e new beta version of Irident x developer - transforms raf files to dng - the best way for windows users I think (set all to defoult and sharpening to zero and convert to dng to be opened in PS or Lightroom.

I'll wait for Mac version - and stick to PS .


Edited by Torturro, 17 February 2017 - 09:42 PM.


#54 voodooless

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 09:05 PM

ON1 can still have strange artifacts, and there is no automatic lens and aberration correction. I think they need a few more iterations before being really useful. At least they make progress, the others aren't doing that much.
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#55 canonfujideluxe

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Posted 21 February 2017 - 09:26 PM

I'm still not sure what to make of this.  Love my XT2 but not convinced/confident enough to use it for landscapes.  For people, I stick to my new Fuji system. For landscapes, I stick to my Canon M3 and Rokinon 12mm (19mm equivalent) for rock solid top notch vibrant colors.  I've decided at this point to have different camera systems for different purposes.  Fuji so far does not seem to deal well with landscapes. I hope I am proven wrong in the future because I sure would love to use my XT2 for landscapes!


My Canon to Fuji experience =) 

XT2, 35/2, 90/2

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