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Few random qs about X-T10: Expert opinion needed


Dr.Nipun

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So I have a few different questions for which I couldn't make a specific name for the thread. I am using X-T10 with 18-55mm lens. So here they are:

 

1. Where is the Acros film simulation mode that people are raving about? I only have monochome and monochrome + Y/R/G filter for B&W.

 

2. After the latest update, I find the photos are saving a bit slowly. Anyone experience that? Both my camera and SD card are fairly new and bought at the same time. And I am experiencing this after the update. Yes I shoot F+Raw but I didn't notice this before. 

 

3. I have set the front dial to change ISO. But to do that I have to press the button first and then scroll to change the value. Is it possible to set without pushing the button first? And if not, I remember with the default setting (which I changed later on) during a shot, just scrolling the dial some value could be changed (I forgot which one - Apeuture of Shutter speed), can I set that also with ISO? I mean 2 settings at a button - one with pressing the dial first, one directly without press)?

 

4. I couldn't quite learn the AE-L & AF-L yet. I want to be able to autofocus on something, then press on AE-L or Af-L which won't change even after I halfpress the shutter for the next shot. For which what should I do?

 

Thanks in advance.

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2. same problem here... I answer in your other thread too...

3. shutter speed can be changed if not set to Auto (main speed dial set +/- something or setting the main speed dial to T full-range of time or so...)... locked  function (not customizable) for turning it!  (I use iso for that fn button... but THE fn button is "the PRESSING" not "the turning" ;) )

Let me add that so you have overloaded functions to the same dial: just turn and change shutter speed; press+turn and change the ISO

Edited by sandroamt
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1. Acros
As darngooddesign said, Acros requires the bigger sensor in the X-Pro2 and X-T2. However, all Acros is is the standard monochrome profile with an 'S' shape tone curve applied, and then some fake 'grain'. You can apply these same adjustments to a raw file in Lightroom using the Tone Curve (select 'medium contrast') and Effects panels for grain, or of course you can take the photo in Photoshop for more careful editing. Other software will have similar options, if you don't use Lightroom.

 

2. I've not noticed a change in speed myself, but you're not the only person who has said the write speeds seem to be slower. Might be a problem with only certain brands of memory card? I'm not sure.

3. The front dial always controls two things—by default, shutter speed and ISO—so yes, you do have to push the dial in to access ISO. Simply turning it without pushing it in will change the shutter speed up or down in 1/3rd stops, but if you want to change shutter speed by a full stop or more then you have to do that with the shutter dial on the top of the camera.

However, if you set the top shutter dial to 'T', then the front dial can control the shutter speed freely, up and down as much as you want. You still push the front dial in to access ISO control.

You can also change the control when you push in the front dial. If you open the main camera menu and go to the second system settings menu (blue 2), you'll see an option called 'button/dial setting'. In there, go to 'function (fn) setting'. The second button, Fn2, is the front dial when pressed in. You can change that to whatever you like, and move ISO to one of the other function buttons. (Some function buttons are disabled depending on what focus mode you're using.)

 

4. There's an easier way to solve this fourth problem. If you turn the camera to manual focus, you can then press the AF-L button to start autofocus. When you stop pressing the AF-L button, autofocus stops and the camera won't change focus. This is called 'back button focus' on most cameras; Fuji just make it part of the manual focus behaviour. So you point the camera at whatever you want to focus at, press the AF-L button to autofocus, then let go fo the button and now the focus stays where it is, no matter how many times you press the shutter. No need to hold a button to hold focus; you can let go and focus doesn't move. The only drawback is you have to remember to press the AF-L button, because half-pressing the shutter will no longer trigger autofocus at all. It takes a little while to get used to, but once you learn it, it'll be no problem and you'll wonder how you ever used a camera without it.

Edited by aceflibble
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2. same problem here... I answer in your other thread too...

3. shutter speed can be changed if not set to Auto (main speed dial set +/- something or setting the main speed dial to T full-range of time or so...)... locked function (not customizable) for turning it! (I use iso for that fn button... but THE fn button is "the PRESSING" not "the turning" ;) )

Let me add that so you have overloaded functions to the same dial: just turn and change shutter speed; press+turn and change the ISO

Thank u for ur valuable suggestion and feedback. :-)

 

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

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1. Acros

As darngooddesign said, Acros requires the bigger sensor in the X-Pro2 and X-T2. However, all Acros is is the standard monochrome profile with an 'S' shape tone curve applied, and then some fake 'grain'. You can apply these same adjustments to a raw file in Lightroom using the Tone Curve (select 'medium contrast') and Effects panels for grain, or of course you can take the photo in Photoshop for more careful editing. Other software will have similar options, if you don't use Lightroom.

 

2. I've not noticed a change in speed myself, but you're not the only person who has said the write speeds seem to be slower. Might be a problem with only certain brands of memory card? I'm not sure.

 

3. The front dial always controls two things—by default, shutter speed and ISO—so yes, you do have to push the dial in to access ISO. Simply turning it without pushing it in will change the shutter speed up or down in 1/3rd stops, but if you want to change shutter speed by a full stop or more then you have to do that with the shutter dial on the top of the camera.

However, if you set the top shutter dial to 'T', then the front dial can control the shutter speed freely, up and down as much as you want. You still push the front dial in to access ISO control.

You can also change the control when you push in the front dial. If you open the main camera menu and go to the second system settings menu (blue 2), you'll see an option called 'button/dial setting'. In there, go to 'function (fn) setting'. The second button, Fn2, is the front dial when pressed in. You can change that to whatever you like, and move ISO to one of the other function buttons. (Some function buttons are disabled depending on what focus mode you're using.)

 

4. There's an easier way to solve this fourth problem. If you turn the camera to manual focus, you can then press the AF-L button to start autofocus. When you stop pressing the AF-L button, autofocus stops and the camera won't change focus. This is called 'back button focus' on most cameras; Fuji just make it part of the manual focus behaviour. So you point the camera at whatever you want to focus at, press the AF-L button to autofocus, then let go fo the button and now the focus stays where it is, no matter how many times you press the shutter. No need to hold a button to hold focus; you can let go and focus doesn't move. The only drawback is you have to remember to press the AF-L button, because half-pressing the shutter will no longer trigger autofocus at all. It takes a little while to get used to, but once you learn it, it'll be no problem and you'll wonder how you ever used a camera without it.

Wow....i cannot thank u enough for ur elaborate reply. The technique u have mentioned in the number 4, definitely I will try that output. And yes it may become a life saver for me. Thanks again.

 

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

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Wow....i cannot thank u enough for ur elaborate reply. The technique u have mentioned in the number 4, definitely I will try that output. And yes it may become a life saver for me. Thanks again.

 

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

That's the way I've used all my Fujis since X-E1 in spring 2013. It's important for me to select AF point were I want it in the frame because the magnifier follows the AF point. Very handy in use. :)

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