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Old lenses for dummies


Iko

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a couple of shots taken with my X-T1 with a 55mm f1.8 pentax super takumar lens attached. I got the lens on ebay for 50$

 

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XT-1 and Pentax 55mm f1.8

wide open this lens produces amazing bokeh but is not particularly sharp so the files benefit from a little more aggressive sharpening than usual and then become quite usable. This image processed from a raw file with only sharpening applied, no other adjustments.

 

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I was an Oly OM shooter before going digital.  Small, light camera and lenses.  Easier for backpacking/climbing, without sacrificing quality.  In keeping with the size and weight benefits of mirrorless over DSLR, I've collected a bevy of Oly primes on Ebay- generally paying about 1/10 of the original price.  I got the 500mm f8 Reflex, 300mm f4.5, 200mm f4, 135mm f3.5, 50mm f1.8, 35mm f2.8, and 28mm f2.8 for about $700 total.  All but one are in mint cosmetic and mechanical shape- the last is excellent mechanically.  Sometimes I use Piccure to snap-up a shot, often not.  These were taken with my X-T1, using the 500mm f7, and run through Piccure.

 

These are boring, test shots, and are only meant to convey the IQ available from the old Olys.

 

Enjoy!

 

 
 
PS I use $15 Chinese/Ebay adapters, and don't think they sacrifice sharpness.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

One thing you should know when you're using old lenses is that you may have to set the WB manually. As I did some comparison shots with three different 50mm lenses I noticed that the Auto WB has some issues to create the right colour temperature. Each lens had its own colour/white and the pictures weren't looking as the image in real.

 

Hope you understand what I mean.

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Here's a little test I made of the Fuji 35mm lens compared to an early 1980's Olympus Zuiko 35mm 2.8.  Hand-held, so the framing and distance is not perfectly equivalent.  Both were shot at f5.6, ISO 800.  Before going to the folder- which is Fuji, which OLY?  Not rocket science.  No, the old Oly file is not razor sharp and contrasty, but sometimes those qualities can actually detract from the overall aesthetics of a photograph.  

 

Then go to the folder to see what can be done to the Oly file in a few seconds of CS3.

 

 I remember when everyone was saying that old legacy lenses couldn't hold up to 16MP...

 

Enjoy!

 

(I don't know how to make them big on this page, so you'll have to click.)

 

35mm A

35mm B

 
Side-by-side; with adjustments:
 

 

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  • 6 months later...

One thing you should know when you're using old lenses is that you may have to set the WB manually. As I did some comparison shots with three different 50mm lenses I noticed that the Auto WB has some issues to create the right colour temperature. Each lens had its own colour/white and the pictures weren't looking as the image in real.

 

Hope you understand what I mean.

KVDK:

You seem to be up on this - I'm wondering if you can help a newbie (to the FujiX, anyway. So new, in fact, that my XPro hasn't even arrived!)

I have a Canon FD 35mm f2, the old heavy one with the silver/chrome nose and some lens element yellowing, I'm assuming from the thorium haze associated with these lenses.

Should I adjust the white balance on the XPro when I use this lens, or should I consider 'clearing' it?

Thanks for any help

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KVDK:

You seem to be up on this - I'm wondering if you can help a newbie (to the FujiX, anyway. So new, in fact, that my XPro hasn't even arrived!)

I have a Canon FD 35mm f2, the old heavy one with the silver/chrome nose and some lens element yellowing, I'm assuming from the thorium haze associated with these lenses.

Should I adjust the white balance on the XPro when I use this lens, or should I consider 'clearing' it?

Thanks for any help

 

I actually never used this lens so I can just give you a general advice. If the results with AutoWB are satisfying you then keep it to AutoWB. But if you're not happy with the result try to set the WB manually to your liking/the right white (or edit in post).

I used different old 50mm lenses and with each lens I got a different result when AutoWB was set. One lens created more yellow/warm shots, the other was a bit more blue/cold. To make every shot the same colour temperature I had to set the WB manually. The results were way more satisfying to me than with AutoWB and each shot looked similar to the other.

Keep in mind that I'm definitely no pro photographer and I shoot 100% Jpeg. It could be usual for a pro to set WB manually or edit the RAW in post. Don't know. For me AutoWB worked really well at least with native XF lenses and I use it for about 95% of my shots.

Hope I could help you!

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Here are my personal reasons for why one might want to use an older lens with an adapter:

 

A- Cost. Say you can't afford  Fuji's 56mm just now but still have your older Nikon equipment - Nikon's 50mm f/1.4 is a very, very good lens  and if you can deal with manual focus can do nearly everything the XF56mm can and the price on eBay is very reasonable.   I imagine the same situation applies with Canon.

 

B- The older lens has a capability Fuji doesn't cover yet.  Example: Nikon AF 105mm micro which has a 1:1 magnification ratio and maximum sharpness at f/11 to f/14 giving extra DOF.  Also has a greater working distance than Fuji's 60mm.  Longish manual focus throw helps for focus stacking. These factors may mean a lot to someone doing serious macro photography.   This is quite a bit of weight and bulk so for most people the XF60mm makes more sense.   Other specialty lenses might include swing-shift or Nikon "DC" lenses.

 

C-  Vintage look, i.e., softness and weird bokeh. Even bad flare that wouldn't be acceptable on a modern lens might be useful.  I like the Russian made Helios for this.   (Just my opinion - adapting older Zeiss or Leica lenses is a wast for this purpose because they are too good!) 

 

D- Its fun

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Here are my personal reasons for why one might want to use an older lens with an adapter:

 

A- Cost. Say you can't afford  Fuji's 56mm just now but still have your older Nikon equipment - Nikon's 50mm f/1.4 is a very, very good lens  and if you can deal with manual focus can do nearly everything the XF56mm can and the price on eBay is very reasonable.   I imagine the same situation applies with Canon.

 

B- The older lens has a capability Fuji doesn't cover yet.  Example: Nikon AF 105mm micro which has a 1:1 magnification ratio and maximum sharpness at f/11 to f/14 giving extra DOF.  Also has a greater working distance than Fuji's 60mm.  Longish manual focus throw helps for focus stacking. These factors may mean a lot to someone doing serious macro photography.   This is quite a bit of weight and bulk so for most people the XF60mm makes more sense.   Other specialty lenses might include swing-shift or Nikon "DC" lenses.

 

C-  Vintage look, i.e., softness and weird bokeh. Even bad flare that wouldn't be acceptable on a modern lens might be useful.  I like the Russian made Helios for this.   (Just my opinion - adapting older Zeiss or Leica lenses is a wast for this purpose because they are too good!) 

 

D- Its fun

 

Good stuff. You've inspired me. I'm looking forward to trying my old Nikon AIS 55mm f2.8 Macro out... I'll post when I get some proofs.

Edited by gussie
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Guest Ridgeback

I'm planning to go this way since I have a Canon AT1 and a bunch of FD lenses which still regularly use for film shooting. Looking at a lens turbo adapter, too.

Especially hoping for good results from my 70-210 Kieron zoom with the 3x TC. Beats having to fork out 1800 bucks for the new 100-400 for wildlife photography.

 

I decided to use Canon FD lenses on my X-T1, I only have the 50mm f1.4 using the metabones adapter without AF but the results are just stunning, tack sharp if you get used to using MF but all the options on the camera help a lot, focus peaking being my fave. Canon FD lenses can be bought brand new old stock from ffords photographic at decent prices although my 50mm was from a German seller on ebay, I paid £100 for a minter.

Edited by Ridgeback
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  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Good stuff. You've inspired me. I'm looking forward to trying my old Nikon AIS 55mm f2.8 Macro out... I'll post when I get some proofs.

 To ad an example that is particularly odd there is the MIR f/2.8 37mm.  As is it's just a clunky unremarkable item but it is relatively simple to unscrew the front retaining ring and reveres the front lens element.  The result is a more or less sharp center that gets very soft as you move away from center.  It's not much use most of the time but you can get one from Ukraine for about $35.  Its mostly a nvelty but perhaps one or twice a year the effect is nice to have.  (No, I don't think you can get the same effect in Photoshop without a lot of work.)

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