Jump to content

Helios lenses for X series


Recommended Posts

Any reviews or photos using this lenses for X series ?

Google is your friend.....

There are quite a few, but Jonas Rask's one in

particular is fun.

https://jonasraskphotography.com/2013/05/17/helios-44m-4-58mm-f2-review/

 

I have it myself, sharp but loses

contrast on max aperture. You buy it for the swirly bokeh though :) I liked it better on my Canon DSLR, for some reason, not my favorite legacy lens on my X-T1. Those are Minolta 45 mm f2, Fujinon-T 100 mm f2.8 and Chinon 55 f1.7

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Pay attention to the generation of the lens, Helios 44-1/2/3/4. The swirly bokeh was due to a lens defect that got corrected starting the 3rd gen and almost fully corrected in the 4th one. Usually legacy lens hunters go for either 1st or 2nd gen, the later being a tad bit cheaper and slightly more contrasty than 1st gen (YMMV).

 

Shoot wide open with a focal reducer for maximum level of swirlyness, but you will lose in sharpness while doing so, it's not a huge amount, but it will be noticeable if you have rather large prints, like A4 size for example.

 

That aside, I love mine a lot, it's easily my most used legacy lens. I have added a Super Takumar 105 F2.8, nicknamed Bokehnator and a Vivitar 24 F2.8 for when I need to go wider.

Edited by darknj
Link to post
Share on other sites

earlier versions of this lens have a different optical design which promote the famous swirl, later ones are in fact corrected for the swirl, they are still nice lenses but not as “ sui generis” as the early ones are.

 

There are ways to modify some of the later versions by means of inverting the front elements of the lens. Several of these modification methods are shown on you tube.

Link to post
Share on other sites

it very much depends what you want.

 

The early Helios, such as yours, have the desirable “ effects” and an almost circular aperture, while the latest models were improved and therefore not rich of defects-effects properties.

 

One thing is for sure, if you are buying one for its great resolution power you aren’t doing anything sensible.

 

On the plus side, these lenses cost so little that you can easily afford buying several types.

 

I own a fairly late 44-M, which despite its better correction has a still some swirl to it ( but you really need to work hard to show it) but the construction is better than earlier models.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Define “ best”.

 

If you mean the most advanced of the lenses that they made yes, but the real question is: " why do you buy one of these lenses?”.

 

http://allphotolenses.com/reviews/item/c_7.html

 

 

 

I sincerely doubt that you buy a lens like these because of its high(er) resolution which is still performing at a fraction than even the worst of the Fuji lenses.

 

Most people buy these lenses precisely for their defective performance which returns a “ special effect” image. 

 

In fact there are so many people who  modify Helios lenses to get an even worse image but one with more “ special” qualities.

 

To THAT purpose, then the best helios is the worst, because it is “ too good"

Edited by milandro
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi Gat. I had several Helios and all were really good. Actually I have a 44-2 and a 44M-4, and they're almost identical. Both have the swirl, the 44M-4 is a little lighter, speaking of light representation. I love them both and I loved the ones I had. The problem is to find a model that doesn't have problems on the lens. It's not a big problem for me because I also deal with lenses, cleaning, repairing and so on, but many ones have major problems on the lenses since they usually are stored like stones, each against the other in drawers.

So the most of them have scratches on both lenses, cleaning marks, and so on. The tiny marks are not a problem since they don't affect the photo at all. Also the oil on the blades is not a problem because it can get cleaned.

It depends on what you want. The 44-2 has the preset diaphragm while the 44M-4 is more modern and has the usual diaphragm. I don't have any issue with the preset, but it depends on people. The bigger problem that might happen for the ones not used to a preset diaphragm, is forgetting to close the blades before to shoot when shooting with a close diaphragm. I'll post some samples as I have a little time, I hope within the weekend.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I have Helios 44M and it is my most used legacy lens with my X-T10. I also own Canon 50mm 1.4 SSC wich is suposed to be superb lens compared to Helios, but I like pictures from Helios more, especially portraits in BW simulation are great with Helios. I cant define what is it with Helios that I like more than Canon but I simply find photos from Helios mora appealing to me. As far as differences between lenses go, I tryed 44M, 44M-2, 44M-4 and early version of this lens without M, just Helios 44. 44 and 44M have 9 apperture blades, others have 6, so bokeh could be nicer on these two. There is also early version of this lens with 13 blades, but I never had a chance to test it. Like others stated it is cheap enough to test it and see for yourself if you like the look from the lens or not.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally I have some samples, sorry for the long delay.

And I'm sorry if the quality is not the top, I haven't used a tripod as I should but it was something made quickly. Anyways.

The two lenses almost seem identical, both have the infamous swirl and image rendition. There might be a very little difference in colour representation, but in the end it's only a matter of taste. And, obviously, if one prefers the normal automatic aperture or the preset.

01

02

03

04

05

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Of course, and partially that's what I did. Though it depends what is meant for competing against modern lenses. Not talking about definition, razor sharp rendition and so on, I prefer these kind of lenses than modern plastic chinese Nikons, just to name one. And I'm not talking about real values otherwise all the modern lenses probably, included Leica and Zeiss, are way too overvalued.

In the end is the final result one is able to obtain, and that's not related to single parameters. There's more. Fortunately, I add.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

It's also perhaps worth bearing in mind that the Zeiss Biotar 58mm f/2 lens, which these Helios lenses are derived from, can also be found relatively inexpensively - gives another option for the same look.

 

Here is an image taken with a Helios 44-2 on my X-T10 and a Lens Turbo II, and processed in Lightroom.

 

wait

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Helios 58mmF2

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by Goran
Link to post
Share on other sites

and some more...

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

When I was looking for a Helios, I focused on the older versions. I have a 44-1, an old low serial Zebra, and a 44-2. The newer ones may be "better" in the ways that you would measure or compare more expensive or better known lenses, but to me the reason for buying a Helios is for the unique aesthetics, which are most prominent in older models. They are hit or miss in quality and condition, so be sure to ask lots of questions if buying on eBay and since they are so cheap, my strategy was to buy three from different sources and slightly different models and then pick my favorite. Also, some adapters seem to have issues with infinity focus. You don't have to buy the most expensive to avoid this, just be aware of it and read the reviews before you buy.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes Nero, that's a problem with the focal distance on the back of the lens. Though I never had any with Helios 58, but with a Tair 300 that I have adapted to make it work. Basically you just have to rduce the distance between the lens and the camera. Sometimes it works a M39->Fuji X adapter with a M42->M39 reduction mounted on.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...