Jump to content

Settings for Sports Shooting


waggles

Recommended Posts

I tried my new x-t1 yesterday for shooting roller blade hockey. I used the 55-200 lens. Exposure setting was ISO 6400, 1/250, f5.6. Not bright, but not bad for indoors. I set the camera focussing to Continuous and the drive to CH. I was shooting through plexiglass.

 

It was almost impossible to get the camera to focus. I tried changing the size of the focus area from medium to large and it made no difference. Is there something else that I should adjust? Is this lens responsible?

 

When I did occasionally achieve focus and shot a burst, I could not follow the action afterwards because the camera was displaying the captured images in the EVF. Is there a way to stop this, maybe have the captures shown on the LCD instead?

 

I have not had any trouble with the Canon 7d or 5dii in the same situation.

 

Can I optimize the x-t1 for this type of shooting or do I need to keep my DSLRs until mirroless evolves?

 

Thanks for any advice.

Link to post
Share on other sites

AFAIK, Continuous High only shows the previous photo, but Continuous Low will show movement during burst shooting. Maybe try continuous low?

 

I'm not sure why you were having AF problems. I shoot primes, and not sports, but that should be the same lighting as f/2.8, 1/125, and 800, and I shoot in darker conditions than that all the time.

 

My guess is maybe the plexiglass was reflecting light and messing with AF? It doesn't seem like it should be so dark as to affect AF. How is it in other conditions

 

The firmware 4.0 update coming in June should make AF 2 stops darker, so hopefully that will help. Since you have some depth of field to work with, could you try AF-S?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Focus problems were due to a stupid mistake on my part. Somehow the camera was set to macro mode. I discovered that while fooling around with the camera today. Funny thing was that it didn't seem to affect focus with the 18-55 lens. Also, it sometimes acquired focus on distant scenes, so I don't really understand what macro mode does. The manual just says to use this mode for close distances.

 

Thanks for the suggestions on burst mode. Problem is that I want high speed bursts. I want to follow the play through the viewfinder and fire off a burst when things look good. After the first burst, the viewfinder isn't available for a few seconds. This is probably old news to many of you, but I found it frustrating.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Waggles,

 

A lot of your issues will be resolved (or at least improved) when Fuji releases it's firmware update on June 18th. There are significant improvements to continuous focus in the new firmware upgrade, you can see the details here: http://www.steves-digicams.com/news/fujifilm_announces_new_version_40_firmware_for_the_xt-1_and_xt-1_graphite_silver.html#b

 

In the meantime here's a few hints to optimise performance as it is now. Make sure the camera is set to High Performance in Power Management. In Screen setup have image review set to off. Set the camera to focus priority NOT release priority. Use the centre focus point at a relatively largish size and and make sure that it is always kept on the subject. AF should be set to AF-C. Use a FAST sd card with a write speed of at least 95MBps, preferably one of the newer ones that write at 250MBps. To maximise your buffer shoot Jpeg or RAW, not Jpeg + RAW.

 

If all this fails you may wish to invest in a faster lens - the 50-140mm f/2.8 is guaranteed to find focus better at f/2.8 - the 55-200mm is not renowned for fast focus. I'd suggest waiting until the firmware upgrade hits and trying it then before investing in new glass.

 

Whatever happens the X-T1 will likely not perform as well as the Canons for this purpose - DSLR makers have had 30 years of development to improve autofocus performance in traditional SLR bodies, and mirrorless cameras are truly in their infancy. The improvements Fuji have apparently achieved bode well for the future, but in the interim sports shooters will likely keep their cameras. Personally I'm fully invested in Fuji with 4 cameras and maybe 6-7 lenses, but I still have two 5D Mark IIIs and all the F/2.8 zooms simply because in some circumstances the Canons outperform the Fujis. I'm hoping that the next iteration of the X-T1 will enable me to move fully to Fuji, but in the meantime I need to do the best for my clients which means using both systems.

 

Good luck!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Hello. Thankyou,now Is all more clear: I have take some time in your link. Let tell you. I has totaly forget this machine have "compress picture option" and not Only "compress lossless" anyway not change the experiment. RAW  and this last two format look like same result about Number of recording picture. Can tell all results in this: in raw you can make 17 pictures for second. Is wrong. Is about One single Press and wait buffer. Full 30/20/10/8 not change. After 17 Need Press again. You not can Press before "redgreen light recording Is on".   With preshot you can have 25  are more 7 pictures . The story change Only in jpg shot only. In jpg at 30 you have 30 picture but redgreen light off very Fast so you can shot very quicly. At 20 shot Is about start look like infinite shot. 60. So the best performance are this last One  about Speed and recording picture after camera working witout big limit. I want take a shot about Italy cyclet Just for passion. I think i Will use this last setting.  After Need check when battery not are full change and ambient temp.  Anyway my cam look like exactly specific about you link. Im Happy my cam working perfectly.
    • I do not use Flickr, so I do not know what their BB code is. All I did was copy the second link you provided, (starting at https: and ending at  _k.jpg — leave off the [img] and [/img] tags) and pasted it into the message. After a moment, a message popped up asking if I wanted to paste it as the image or as a plain link. I did this twice, the first time I had it paste in as the image and the second time as a link. Nothing fancy or tricky.
    • So do I just copy the BB code from flickr and paste it anywhere on the page like other forums or is there some other trick I need to perform to get it to post?
    • All software is the latest between camera and app. All settings are correct on camera. I have both lossless and uncompressed RAW files on the card in the camera. I have been up and down every reddit thread to no avail and am losing my mind… I’m doing all of the right things. It even sees my camera. It just doesn’t create the “drive” for it (see attached image screenshot).  Please Help! 

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • Not sure how to delete threads, but I figured out what was wrong. In short, I was partially misunderstanding the view-mode's function. Also, the "+LCD Image Display" part requires that you have the Image Disp. setting set to anything but Off. Then it will display your last image on the LCD. If it's off, it's behavior will be exactly like the plain Eye Sensor setting.
×
×
  • Create New...